By David Tepera, September 6, 2023
Growing up on the Gulf Coast, I always had a passion for learning how to surf. In high school, I competed in swimming and water polo, so I didn’t think surfing would be that big of a challenge.
At the age of 19, I bought a used 6-foot tri-fin trick board and was on my way to crank and carve out some gnarly waves. Just know, I’m not as cool as I’m trying to portray in this article.
Well, I had no idea what I was up against. The surf was up, so I kicked back on the seawall and watched the other experienced surfers cutting the waves.
After a time of observing, I was ready to attempt my new coolness as a surfer dude. I dropped my board in the water and attempted to paddle out to the breaks.
The waves kept crashing and dragging me back, as all my energy was being used up. Sometimes, the wave would send my board over my head as I tried desperately to hang on.
Being a strong swimmer, I finally made it out to the breaks. The other surfer brahs were sitting on their boards waiting on the next set of swells. I wanted to be cool like them, but every time I tried sitting on the board, I’d flip over looking like an upside-down turtle.
After I caught my wind, I attempted to drop in on some waves only to fall, nose-dive, slip and totally look like the rookie I was. But, then it finally happened, I found the sweet spot on my board and rode my first wave.
I spent the next 20-plus years perfecting my surfing skills. I learned to charge and catch the lip into the barrel, plus cutback to take on the full wave. The ocean was no longer my enemy because I was the king who conquered Mother Nature.
Once, there was a time after a long day of surfing, sitting on the sand and looking back at the majestic gulf that I realized learning to surf taught me a great lesson in life.
How many of you feel like the world keeps knocking you around? You keep trying to get ahead, but the forces keep pushing you back? For some reason, you just can’t keep your feet planted and stay upright?
What you need to realize is that all those seemed days of gloom are only helping you to find the sweet spot to start riding the waves of success. Stay with it because you will conquer all that challenges you. Now it’s your turn to take the drop and enjoy the ride.